#9 Croatia again, Bosnia and Herzegovina again

In the hostel in Gradi┼íka was only the Rick from the USA, who has already made several rides on the bike. My English, well, I know it will get better in the next weeks and months ­čÖé

I found it interesting that he travels with 10 kg of luggage, keeping everything to a minimum, while I have about 25 kg.
But everyone has different requirements, because these 25 kg are my home for the next months or even years. So why should I have to do without my bathrobe and pyjamas? Of course it was a joke, but I cook, camp wildly, I need more clothes, a computer (over 3 kg), etc… It’s just my home for a long time.

However, the first impression was that BiH (Bosnia and Herzegovina) is poorer. But I was only in one city and can’t say more about it.
In the evenings people were sitting in the bars, singing, having fun. I had dinner with Rick in a restaurant that reminded me very much of a communist time: The cook in a white coat, a lot of stuffed, cheap of course also, a little smoky.
The waiter was also funny when he first approached Rick: “Trump, very good! Later to me: “Lewandowski, very good!” and showed his thumb up again. When he went out he said to me: “Germany, very good” and surprisingly showed his thumbs up. He was nice and really took care of us and other guests.

In the hostel I saw for the first time a washbasin for children, directly at the toilet. For me to wash my hands and brush my teeth naturally too deep, but interesting in any case:

Rick drove further south in the morning (he saw more in Europe than me ­čśÇ ) while I spent a day all alone in the 6-bed room. I went to sports shops in the city and also went grocery shopping. In the evening I went to a restaurant.
In the restaurant, an “eat” became “─ćevapi” or rather ─ćevap─Źi─çi. I thought I was supposed to get a card, and she said something about 10 minutes. Then she came with a plate ─ćevapi.
Okay, it was super good, again. The problem was, I was hungry and I was really hungry. I paid the 5 KM (about 2,50 EUR) and went to another restaurant.
There was a map and a waiter who advised me. I ordered a beer and then chicken breast with a mushroom sauce. Again very tasty. I paid 10 KM (5 EUR).

The food here is really delicious, I think just like in the whole Balkans. I think there is little to be done wrong.
One big problem is: They put vinegar in the salad and break it. I can’t stand vinegar, and the best place to put it is in the toilet. This disgusting juice, which then settles on the salad plate below, is it still drunk? That’s one way to get rid of hunger.

I still found it great that there is WIFI free of charge in almost all restaurants.

The next day I should go back to Croatia, where I should sleep in a hostel in Slavonski Brod.
The way led me first to the border, where only 3 cars stood in front of me. Then on, again about this endless row of houses, only this time came more variety. All felt 20 km a very small park. The road was very flat, I had a light tailwind (WOW!). Still, I could hardly find places to pee.

Then finally after more than 90 km I arrived at the hostel around 4 pm. I went into the driveway, then around the corner again and outside only a granny was sitting on her chair with a headscarf. Nobody else. She had bad hearing and didn’t understand me. She pointed to the phone number where I should call. So mobile out, unfortunately I could not connect to the network. In the hostel there was no landline, no WIFI. So out on the street, approached people (fortunately a nice lady spoke German) and already everything was done. 10 min. later came a woman, with whom I paid then approx. 11 EUR for an overnight stay. I was all alone in the whole hostel with Granny. WIFI was disconnected for whatever reason.

In the city I had WIFI (normal stop) and could communicate a little with home. I also went shopping.

In the morning I drove on, again partly through these rows of houses, but later turned south towards Šamac. Before the border I got rid of my remaining Kunats (Croatian currency) in a small shop. The pretty lady was helpful and we were still talking at the shop door. I packed the small stuff and then moved on waving. Back to the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. I first talked to the official on the Croatian side and drove on.

On the stage side I talked to the officials again and there was a small traffic jam. But you can talk ­čÖé Don’t you worry about it.

I then drove through some Bosnian side roads showing some nice houses. But also through a stony road, where I panicked before a flat tire again.

Beautifully past a lake

I saw on a pile of rubble two smaller dogs looking for something. I can’t tell if they’ve been exposed. They both looked at me when I stopped. After that I drove on, it could be that they belong to someone, because the houses often have no fence. If they don’t belong to anyone, they’d survive like this, and I can’t take them.

Then finally I came on the main road towards Br─Źko. In the city first drove to the center, where there is WIFI to find the exact address of the Guest House. I went there, paid 24 EUR for 2 nights and had my own room. I had again over 90 km behind me. Unfortunately, my GPS is weird again. I’m thinking of getting another smartphone.
In the Guest House I was also allowed to use the washing machine and had a hot plate! What a luxury!

The same day I went out for dinner. For 10 KM (5 EUR) I got ─ćevapi with ham and cheese, something to drink and 2 flatbreads. It was so good, again. I also liked the small restaurant very much. The music with its Arab influence was Balkan music. Also the presentation with the wooden chairs, the waiter humming to the music, everything was perfect.

I slept like a baby and the next day I searched some sports shops in the city for cheap sports clothes. Unfortunately only branded goods and boutiques. To spend 15 EUR for a pair of shorts, which may later end up dirty in the trash, is a pity. So I went grocery shopping, looked at the center. There were a lot of coffees etc., so as it is in the Zenrum. I decided not to go out for dinner and cooked at the guest house instead.

I find this city much more beautiful, it has more possibilities, but it is also more modern. But the more modern, the more it was destroyed. I don’t know the exact story, though.

Another thing about Bosnia and Herzegovina: almost half of the people here are Muslims (Bosniaks), so that one hears the Muslim songs at certain times. I heard them for the first time in Gradi┼íka, here in Br─Źko you can even hear several.
I find that fascinating and was happy to have heard something like that for the first time. A new culture, new religion and I look forward to the other countries.
In addition, many texts are in Latin, but also in Cyrillic script.
Bosnia and Herzegovina is also divided into three different groups: Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats.

I was invited by the guest house owner to the cafe (thanks for that!), where I could also learn something about life in BiH. It’s just like in the other Balkan states, you fight your way through. For some it is easier, for others it is more difficult.

My next route led me about 50 km through BiH to Serbia. Not much really happened, except that I was invited by a German-speaking elderly gentleman to chat for an hour in a small village off the main road. He also gave me a Slimowic, I indulged in one. But it’s probably normal in this region. Rejecting is rude.
The Lord is in Austria more often, so that he can also speak German. We continued on the main road, where the traffic, which was fortunately not too strong, annoyed me nevertheless.

The border came closer and a new country, Serbia was to come. Although this is only a border, there are still many regional differences, as in every country. A stamp later I was over there.

7 thoughts to “#9 Croatia again, Bosnia and Herzegovina again”

  1. Hallo Lukasz,
    wieder einmal herzlichen Dank f├╝r den tollen Bericht. Es ist sch├Ân, dir auf diese Weise folgen zu k├Ânnen.
    So viele neue Eindr├╝cke und bewegende Momente, es ist, im positiven Sinne, beneidenswert aber auch hart erk├Ąmpft. Ich w├╝nsche dir noch viel mehr von all dem Sch├Ânen und dass die Zecken und M├╝cken dich meiden m├Âgen, du daf├╝r aber immer einen guten und sicheren Schlafplatz findest.
    Ganz liebe Gr├╝├če, wir alle denken an dich

    1. Hallo Vera,

      danke sch├Ân! Bisher hat es irgendwie geklappt mit dem Schlafplatz. In wenigen Tagen kommt Rum├Ąnien dran, freue mich schon total!

      Gru├č aus Serbien

      Lukas

  2. Ja, wieder ein sch├Âner Bericht zum lesen und tr├Ąumen. Hab mit dir die Cevapcici genossen! Hatte den Geruch f├Ârmlich in der Nase. Auf den D├Ârfern wirst du wahrscheinlich ├╝berall diese Freundlichkeit finden. Ich freu mich das es dir bisher gef├Ąllt. Schreib bitte flei├čig weiter. Liebe Gr├╝├če auch von Monika

    1. Hi,

      das Essen im Balkan ist einfach nur super, aber nichts f├╝r Vegetarier. Auch in den St├Ądten trifft man sehr nette Menschen, ├╝berrascht mich immer wieder, scheint hier aber normal zu sein.

      Gru├č nach Norddeutschland!

      Lukas

  3. Wahnsin wie weit Du es schon geschaft hast, weit ├╝ber 2200 km mit dem Fahrad, ich bin stolz darauf Dich ein wenig zu kennen.

    Bin gerade ein wenig gefrustet.
    Da Du schon bald die T├╝rkei zu durchquerren wirst und ich in Berlin lebe, dachte ich, ich k├Ânnte Dir ein paar Unterk├╝nfte in der T├╝rkei vermitteln zu versuchen, heute abend.
    Also auf der schnelle handschriftlich kleines Infoblatt ├╝ber deine Reise vorbereitet, mit deiner Reisebuchadresse und Skypeadresse, sowie meiner Nummer und so (das auch ich das an Dir weitergeben kann).
    Habe mir wirklich m├╝he gegeben bei beiden von deiner Reise zu schw├Ąrmen und das du dich sicherlich ├╝ber Pennpl├Ątze freuen w├╝rdest.
    Also zu Sp├Ątis wo ich Stammkunde bin, wo man mich kennt.
    Erster Sp├Ątverkauf, junger Besitzer, hat gleich abgewiegelt, der zweitete auch, aber hat mir auch erkl├Ąrt das er nur seine alte Gro├čmutter in der T├╝rkei hat und nicht einfach jemanden den er selber nicht pers├Ânlich kennt, vorbeischicken kann, der vermutich kein T├╝rkisch kann.
    Habe es dann bisher nicht mehr weiter in weiteren L├Ąden versucht.
    Vieleicht rufe ich die Tage meinen alten Freund Ismail mal an, mit Ihm habe ich fr├╝her schon einiges gemacht, ist leider seid Jahren von Berlin nach M├╝nchen emmigrier und Rentner, aber sehr nett.

    1. Hi R├╝di, danke f├╝r die M├╝he, aber die T├╝rkei ist gro├č und die genaue Route noch unbekannt. Zudem campen wir eh ├Âfter wild ­čÖé Wird alles gut. Also, zerbrich dir nicht den Kopf, wir (in 2 Tagen kommt ein Bekannter hinzu) werden schon was finden. ­čÖé

      ├ťbrigends, im habe nun ├╝ber 3000 km auf dem Buckel ­čÖé (Beitrag noch nicht aktuell).

      Gru├č aus S├╝drum├Ąnien

      Lukas

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