#21 – Iran, Persian Gulf and Conclusion

The best thing about Shiraz was the ride out of Shiraz.
We arrived from Bandar Abbas, slept well in the bus, so almost the whole 9 hours. I got my omelette for breakfast in a breakfast bar and the trip out of the city, well, waving all the time was announced. We were even encouraged to ride a horse. With the horse by the Mongolia, hm, dream or nevertheless another goal?

Shortly after Shiraz we drove through villages. At some shops sheep and goats waited in a fenced area for their slaughter. Surely you can choose the animal yourself and wait or even watch if you need a lot of it. The sight hurt and hurt me.

Here is a lucky goat, I think it will be slaughtered

After a total of 40 km we were invited. There was something to eat and we visited a 2500 year old bridge. The Iranians are proud of their history and want to share as much as possible with the guests. Also my opinion about Iran is important. One sees the joy in the face as soon as I say something nice. The image is just important for them. They are also afraid of being lumped together with the criminal Islamists. That’s why they ask what Europeans think of Iran or what the media is saying.

The women cooked and we men sat together in the living room in the evening. Once again the usual distribution of roles. The women also ate elsewhere. But they are also allowed to go to work and study if it is okay for the man. Different countries, different customs. I don’t like it.
It was nevertheless a beautiful day, thanks for it and above all for the tasty food!

By the way, I think we are invited every day when we ride our bikes.

As beautiful as we were cycling, the traffic police stopped us. After a short and apparently funny conversation with Ali we were escorted about 20 km by them. The reason for this was that we are important tourists who make their country known. Then I asked myself, why do they hand over the visas so complicated? Well, Iran seems quite communist to me anyway, some things really remind me of Poland back then. Bureaucracy and little or no information about the outside world. So I am told almost every day how great Hitler is. After some questions about Hitler I was told that the Iranians had Aryan blood. Ok, I hear that almost every day. They are very proud of that. I think they want to have as much to do with Germany as possible, and that’s why every commonality is written very highly. But the Iranians have such a proud and great history, they don’t have to bind themselves to Hitler. Moreover, they don’t have all the information about the Adolf, so their knowledge is limited.

Ok, back to the travel blog.

When we wanted to visit a ruin, three younger women were interested in both of us Europeans. Probably we could have married them after a short time. 😀
Occasionally I don’t know if it’s fun sometimes. But they were really interested 😀 Here you just get married, nothing about being together.

On the same day Ali’s spoke broke. The repair took so long that we only did 40 km.

We then wanted to sleep in the park in Firuzabad, but young people did not leave us any peace: Photos, Hello, etc. So we went to the hotel. We decided that from now on I would come from Poland so that the reactions wouldn’t be too strong. You know Poland, but nobody is interested. Except maybe because of Lewandowski and volleyball.

The next day we made about 100 km towards Jam, which was 180 km away. There were hardly any villages on the way, so that we used every or the only shopping possibility. About 80 km before Jam we slept behind a small hill at the road. In the morning during the drying of our tents a pack of goats ran through our place. All beautiful after the row or as a couple. Shortly into my tent sniffed, at the tree the banana peels found and plastered and further it went. The bells sounded like a melody and my mood was wonderful afterwards. The shepherd also came to good last.

In Jam, where we actually wanted to sleep in the park, we accepted an invitation from someone who had refused. A 3-storey building, just for us. When Ali asked where to get falafel in Jam, our host was gone within a minute to get falafel. There was also tea, of course, which was brought to us in the thermos.
It was probably saffron tea.The next day was a holiday, food and drinks were free. Many walked up a mountain in a black robe. Many Iranians also hike to Iraq on that day. Some Iraqis even hike for several days. Unfortunately I don’t know exactly where to go, but it could be a grave.

On the way to Jam

There’s always time for nonsense

We had to wait because the police said it was too crowded on the street. So we waited on the street. Then we were allowed to go 500 m further and we had to wait again. There really weren’t many there, the scaremongering brought me into rage. Then also still our passports had to be photographed, now and then happens. After cars and motorcycles had conquered the road again, we still had to wait for the security. Tourists should be very important. When I heard that, I turned around disrespectfully, sat down and looked elsewhere. When the policemen drove up, we sat down on our bikes and just drove off. 500 m further was our turn. But they were distracted and didn’t see us. We were gone. The Iranians often make such a panic: dangerous animals, dangerous people, etc..

It was only 30 km to Bandar Siraf. Arrived in the city, directly off into the sea! Almost 30 degrees warm water, wonderful!

The most beautiful television in the world. I would pay GEZ (broadcasting fee) for it voluntarily

When we arrived, we first ate a watermelon and raved like little children in the water. It was so wonderful!
Ali later got free food because it was a holiday and we spent the day in Siraf. The city should be very old, a large part is buried by a 7 active earthquake. So this was told to me. There is still a castle and a ruin to admire.

We slept in a small park. In the morning there were more tents in the park. Typically Iran, again and again the people are camping. Wonderfully something like that. It is also free of charge, there is water, toilets and often grill stands in the parks.

Oil refinery, but it was huge.

By the way: In a big garden that we looked at, the workers asked me if I wanted to try their pipe. This kind of pipe was new to me. It was more of a pipe. The tobacco was a brownish or black lump. I pulled twice as good as I could. Thank me and left. I got sleepy shortly afterwards. Fortunately the sleepiness passed after half an hour. Later I learned that it was opium. We all laughed about it.
For those who find it terrible: Alcohol is on the same level as opium, both are forbidden. So both are bad, as it looks. Just because alcohol is allowed in Europe doesn’t mean it has to be better.

On one section of the journey I withdrew every now and then to enjoy a beautiful route with my music. It was 48 degrees in the sun, great views, bathing in the sea and again camping at the sea.

I let my thoughts run again, among other things what becomes in winter? What would my life look like if I had to return? etc.

We slept again in the tent by the sea the next day. The distances between the villages are bigger here, so we have to carry enough water with us. Through the steppe to the left, sea to the right, past camels, we already jumped over the stony path.
In the village, when I saw the 12, 13 etc year old children on the mopeds, I felt an exhaustion, because I had no desire for people. Immediately everyone drives next to you, you are observed, examined and questioned. But they are children and the radiance and joy in their faces gives them strength. Especially when a very young boy, grinning and proud, drives next to you on his mini bike. They get more and more attention from me. That could have been me at that age. Little blonde Lukas on his bike. Then the little waving girls. Every now and then one of them has a headscarf on. Some are shy, some scream Hello, laugh and wave.

Arriving at the beach, I saw a ray jumping out of the water. There are also many larger crabs on the beach. But as always I am overwhelmed by the beautiful view of the garbage. Every time it hurts me totally and it pisses me off extremely.
But more about that at the end.

The people here in the south are often darker from the skin colour. The villages have at least one mosque that you can see from far away. There are just more Arabs here, that is also visible in the clothes. Some are even quite dark.

The same every day

Or strange fish

The next day we decided to go to the island of Kish.

The ferry had a small delay of about 14 hours due to the strong wind. So we spent the whole day in the harbour area. Before the departure almost 50 cars stood in line, all wanted on the small ferry. After a little chaos, because the ferry left from somewhere else than thought and all cars had to turn, we could leave.
One hour later, around 1 o’clock, we were in Kish.

Kish has almost nothing in common with the Iranian mainland, it is like Kleindubai, hotels, no garbage, skyscrapers, palm trees, modern cars, some women like to drop their headscarves, men more often with shorts. There are border controls at the entrance.

We stayed here for 3 days. Ali, the man with the huge heart, unfortunately had to fly back. He was quite finished because of that. He flew directly from Kish to Tehran. Such a trip was for him almost like a dream, which he could fulfill. I am glad that we could help him. All the best, we will definitely stay in touch. I will miss him.

To leave Kish with the ferry was not so easy at all. We could only buy the tickets with a certain permission. These we got in the office for Foreign. Only then we could buy tickets to Bandar Charak at the port terminal.

The trip was shitty, air conditioning on full and nice tight. Fortunately it was only 1 1/2 hours.
In Bandar Charak, when we drove to the park to sleep, we were invited by an English speaking man. We ate together and had breakfast together. When he proudly showed us the village, he asked himself, why the next and then such an oversized mosque is built in the village, there are already many here, instead of a hospital? The mosque was supposed to be really huge.
You hear the topic or such questions again and again. The money is not put in where the people want it. But I have also heard that the money for the mosques comes partly from the Arabs. I do not know whether all this is true.
We said goodbye with a lot of gratitude. But again the distribution of roles was to be seen, women in the household and only among themselves, men also among themselves. When I said goodbye, I saw everyone together for a moment.

We drove on towards Qeshm, the island we wanted to go to. We bathed on the way, there were very many small stingrays. Together with the long sting she had certainly 50 cm, wow.
On the way there was no Internet, Irancell blocked us again. But since two days were holidays, the following day was a Friday (compared to Europe Friday is like Sunday), we had to wait three days until we could get new maps from Irancell.

Stony and sandy

fishing boats

Oil again

60 km before the harbour to Qeshm, when we wanted to sleep in a place, a young couple brought us to their home. Both spoke English and it was really great with them. Both were very open-minded and they did not live according to the usual scheme: starting a family, buying a house, assigning roles as their parents expected. They always save their money to travel the world. For the first time I didn’t listen to Iranian music either, it was Bob Dylan with Blowing in the wind, wonderful! Very great the two.
The music here in the south, by the way, is often very influenced by the African. In general, some African music seems to me here, even the clothes of the women sometimes.

The picture is against the sun, two were ashamed and didn’t want to be in front of the camera. There was music, they sang and almost danced.

We stayed with them for two days. Thank you for everything!

On the way to the ferry a man came from a lonely hut on the side of the road and waited for me. Michael was too far in front. He waved me to himself. He had an elongated beard and was traditionally dressed all in white. He pressed me a bag in the hand and went to his car, which stood at the hut. In the bag was cold mineral water and two ice. I looked at him, laughed, waved to the woman dressed in a burka as well and thanked him. They both waved back and drove off. They had stopped extra, went into the small shop just to buy us water and ice.

The ferry took us free of charge to the island of Qeshm and then to the city of Qeshm. There are a few big shopping centers, hotels, but still much more pleasant and cheaper than Kish.

In a mobile phone shop, both guys got our SIM cards working again. Both did not work for several days. In Iran the phone has to be registered. Ours were blocked in the meantime, because Irancell never worked properly in Iran from the beginning. Again and again something was combined, cards exchanged, left cards assigned, so that somehow that ran with us. Now was the end. But it is normal with tourists or their telephones. We got an old mobile phone, which we used as an access point. Be that as it may, it’s lame ass.

Like everywhere in Iran, fast food without end. Restaurants with a lot of advertising at the windows of fish, there is only fish kebab, otherwise kebab, chicken, always the same. In the evening the selection in Qeshm is bigger, because the siesta is over. From 8 pm all restaurants are open. Unfortunately, the menus are rarely in English.

What about payment in Iran:
Payment is also often made with the card: simply give the card, say the PIN loudly and that’s it. The seller types everything in. Unthinkable in Germany. We paid everything in cash anyway, our credit cards don’t work in Iran.

In Qeshm City we stayed four days, we somehow couldn’t get away. Couchsurfing Host was not a host, Come to my home invitation was not an invitation. Iran just blocked our smartphones completely and I got a slight fever because of overeating and slept a whole day. Nevertheless the time in the park was great. I met a great family from Tehran and later also some hitchhikers.

Then finally our trip around the island started. After 30 km we were tired and had a short siesta in the hammock. When we woke up, it slowly got dark and we walked a few meters to the beach to pitch our tents. We met two caravan vehicles from Holland and Germany. We were invited directly and six of us spent a great evening. It was nice to meet so many like-minded people and people not living in the system. It brought me joy to meet people who do not want to live according to the standard scheme. Some of them were rather runaways that fascinated me.

Stars Valley on Qeshm Island

When we looked at each other the next day from the motorboat from Delphine, many emotions came up with me. I was really happy when they jumped next to me. Nature has so much to offer. Nevertheless so much is polluted out of money lust and laziness. I’m really afraid of China when I have to see the colored oceans. I don’t think I can cope with that. I am also worried about fishing here, there is so much fishing, the sea has so much to offer. If so, how long?

Bad photos, I’m still learning

Whatever. When we made a short stop on a small island, my old idea came up again, to simply put a small bamboo house on a smaller island and be happy. Own garden, always summer, there are many interested pretty women here, ok, but first of all travel. 🙂 Let’s see, maybe in South East Asia? Nevertheless, my journey has a destination (Vietnam, Laos, approximately), because without it it is difficult, but it is also a new beginning in my life. It can also be that I settle down somewhere. Germany doesn’t appeal to me at all, it has been for a long time. But I can’t really form an opinion, as long as I have no comparisons, I just lived in Germany. Nevertheless, I am convinced that I would become happier somewhere else. A life where life stands in the foreground. You have to dream.

Children on their playground, the beach

The next morning we met Eric, a Frenchman who has travelled a lot by bike and is now only on his way to Oman for a few months. Ggf sees us again, because we have similar plans.

Park on the island. In the background you can see a hut, there the Iranians like to camp.

When we wanted to sleep in a park on the beach, four children came to us. Shortly afterwards they routinely laid out a homemade trap to catch a fox. Three of them walk around in the park. One of the children showed us his knife to probably kill the fox and something else. Preventing would not help as they would come back the next day. Fortunately they were unsuccessful. I wasn’t there, I couldn’t see the misery. Great upbringing! Keep up the good work, animals are worth nothing anyway.

Two boys approached us shyly. When they caught a crab, however, they were quickly with us.

Salt cave

Would that be allowed in Europe? It was very narrow

Children are picked up from school

A bird

Is there still a discussion in Germany about colours for ingredients? Bad red, good green?

Unfortunately we couldn’t see the mangroves, it was low tide.

Arriving in Qeshm City we were roaming around. I had my tent pole repaired, we locked the government?? for the Oman visas, slept in the park and the next day visited the small island Hormuz. I call it the colorful fly island.
The island has a circumference of about 20 km and is known for its colorful rocks. I discovered green, red, brown, black, white and purple.

But the flies drove us to leave the island quickly.

In Bandar Abbas, for whatever reason, we couldn’t take the ferry to Sharjah near Dubai on the same day, Wednesday. Only on Sunday. We went to a hotel for 6 dollars a night. The costs are for the room, so not per person.
Ali wanted to visit us and arrived 20 hours with his car. So we spent the last days in Iran together with Ali. We had our bikes checked, I changed my chain. Nevertheless I have to change the chainrings later anyway. After more than 12000 km they are not so good anymore. But the Shimano SLX has held up very well until now.

Ever seen colorful chicks? Is a toy for children. The child chooses some, they are then still alive in the plastic bag and the child plays with it at home. My stomach turned when I saw this

A boy and a girl sat on the sidewalk waiting for people to stand on their scales for a little money. This is often seen in Iran, where the children earn some money. Most of them come from other countries.
When we were in the mini-market, the girl arrived and pointed to something sweet. Ali asked where she came from. From Afghanistan, she said. We bought the big package for her. I have seldom seen such a smile. She almost jumped for joy and couldn’t wait until it was open. Her legs could not stand still as she waited for the scissors to open the package. When it was finally open, she first gave something to the brothers, then she took herself. Then she came to me, looked at me and said in a language I didn’t know, “Thank you,” smiling with joy. To make someone so happy, then with such a little something, that is almost only possible with children.

We paid about $35 for the ferry. We opted for the Business Comfort class. The Business Class has too many beds in one room. Economy is completely without beds. But no matter which business class you took, the result was the same.
My remaining money, a few dollars I gave Ali so that he could distribute it to the children on the street.

After a lot of chaos, the Iranians don’t know any queues, back and forth and illogical organization we came to the big waiting hall. There were 2 blackouts. The ferry left also 4 hours later than planned, because there was a thunderstorm. Or was it the surprising low tide? That wouldn’t surprise me either. That was also rumored.

We had a cabin for two. 12 hours later we were in Sharjah. But I slept so well.
When the ferry arrived, after almost 3 months Iran was finally over.
A great country with ups and downs.

Conclusion

My conclusion is that the people here are just great. They like to tell something about their really old and proud history. Very hospitable and also quite relaxed. Some sing loudly on their mopeds, wonderful. Again and again I allowed myself little jokes or their greetings were often also funny. A nice How are you, many can’t do more in English. Few are shy. If they even know 3 words in English, they simply say them without being ashamed. Always a smile on their face. Still now I have to laugh at the thought of it. Not yet experienced such a loose people. Although perhaps the Romanians, but there I was too short.
The Islamic hospitality and looseness I will in any case nurture in my own personality.
I will miss the Thank You, Hello Hello Hello, Misterrr, how arrrre you, etc. shouts. And there’s always a smile on my face.

Children take responsibility very early and learn for life very early. 15 year olds or even younger sit in the shop for their dad and sell fruit and vegetables. 13 year olds take their mummy somewhere by scooter. Children also learn when the adults are in business. They just listen. If it’s better or worse, I can’t judge. But the German system is a disaster anyway. So it should be better here? Or only differently? But, I am still careful what I say. It is just my current view.

Beautiful landscape. Of course there are ugly places where there is only rubble, garbage or boredom. Nevertheless Iran has a lot to offer. Jungle, desert, mountains, lots of snow in winter and in the south sea and always summer.

Garbage is like in most countries a problem, for me at least. The dad or salesman gives the little boy a can to throw down the mountain. Instead of putting a garbage can down. I threw plastic cups on the floor. A garbage bag can end up in the bushes.
Plastic everywhere, in the sea, on the beach, in the forest, garbage heaps, so many. For a bottle of water a bag is taken. Iran is totally rubbish.
Dear Iranians, please stop this shit!
By the way, Germany is not so great, recycling hardly works with plastic. But the main thing is cheap. So Germany also garbage, only, you don’t see it like in Iran. Serbia, there was the nature reserve with the countless bottles on the beach, oh, always the same. Thanks industry, thanks to the not disciplined! I just want to say that this is a huge global problem. But slowly, fortunately, something is moving, I hope this will also reach other nations.

Fuel is cheap (about 4 cents for diesel), so do the big cities: Smog that burns in the eyes.

So go on, then soon no more dolphins will jump here.

I wished that Iran, one of the richest countries in the world (have a lot of oil, gas and gold), would get a new government. People are unhappy and poor.
Besides, the Iranians should please pay attention to their garbage heap, so their landscape and the animals. It hurts me very much that such a beautiful country sinks into the garbage.

All photos to the contribution here: http://lukasadrian.net/index.php/nggallery/alles/12-2—Iran?page_id=2436&lang=en

2 thoughts to “#21 – Iran, Persian Gulf and Conclusion”

  1. Oh man…..4 Cent für Diesel! Hier liegt er grad bei 1,36 €. Hört sich sehr schön an wie du über die Iraner sprichst. Bestätigt ja das was meine Cousine erzählt. Das was du über die Rolle der Frauen schreibst wurde uns schon einmal von 2 Reisenden bestätigt die wir in der Ukraine getroffen haben. Aber im Prinzip wissen wir das auch. Hoffe das es im Oman auch so toll ist und du mir im Januar viel berichten kannst. Ich freue mich schon.

    1. Hallo Renke, mir fällt leider zum Iran immer wieder noch was ein, was ich nicht erwähnt habe. Ich hoffe, der Text spiegelt dennoch meinen Eindruck.

      Über Oman gibt es viel zu erzählen, aber nicht jetzt 😛

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